#isewlation2020 : Isra


Ahhh shirt making.  It’s one of those projects that I kind of put off, but when I pull the trigger and make a shirt I feel so so so accomplished.  This shirt project was no exception.


I sewed the Isra Shirt as part of the preview team for Issue 11 of Fibremood in September last year.  For those who follow me on Instagram and have excellent memories, you may remember the ‘driving the car’ issue that I experienced on this project.  It’s one of those fit issues that has been plaguing me on-and-off for years in both RTW and my sewing.


Here are a few of the projects where it tripped me up…. Ottobre Woven Tee (2016)  Tessuti’s Sydney Jacket (2017) and more recently my Japanese top with sleeve frills (2020).


Isra was the project where I decided that it was time to sort out what was causing this restriction.  After discussions with a clever friend and putting my nose into my fitting books, I diagnosed a broad back issue.  My broadness is where my bra strap sits… which I’d classify a low broad back!  My pattern making friend, the clever one I referenced earlier, talked me through the alteration and I added 2cm in total to my broadest area.  The method I used I can’t reference anywhere, but if you are looking for a ‘how to’ I would suggested the In-House Patterns video.

As a side note, I have been toiling a dress for my mum recently and low and behold… I had to do a board back adjustment on her dress too!


The fabric for this project is such deep stash that I have no memory where it came from.  Regardless of its origins it’s a lovely quality linen in my favourite shade of red.


The buttons are an ode to sewing during lockdown.  They are all red buttons of a similar size, but from my button op shop collection, making them mis-matched.  They are hidden under a placket… but I know they are there!


The other changes I made to the pattern was to remove the front, back and sleeve seam detail (personal preference) and do my usual forward shoulder adjustment and sleeve shortening trick.

All-in-all I’m thrilled with this project… and I look forward to no more ‘driving the car’ issues in the future!


Pattern:  Fibremood’s Isra Shirt
Size:  UK10
Fabric:  Deep stash linen
Alterations:  3/8″ (1cm) forward shoulder adjustment, 13/16″ (2cm) broad back adjustment and I removed 1″ (2.5cm) from the sleeve length.  I also removed the front, back and sleeve seam detail (personal preference).
Outfit:  Antique beads, pants from COS and shoes from Manteau Noir
Location:  Kirks Reserve, Ballarat


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