Almost Long Trousers
The Assembly Line’s Almost Long Trousers was one of those patterns that I had over-looked until I saw an inspiring pair that @kirstenjohnstone_com made using her husband’s old jeans. I’ve always had a soft spot for denim… but re-purposed denim is next level!
As my version was sewn in January, I opted for a cotton poplin from work to make a lightweight summer pant.
Like with my Barry Pants, my toile was a sample for work. I sewed the size small without any alteration and followed the instructions to the letter. You can see me modelling this first pair (yes same fabric!) on The Cloth Shop’s instagram account.
The Assembly Line has a very nifty elastic insertion method that allows for a flat front and gathered sides/back. The only downside to this method is that there is no chance to alter the length of the elastic as it’s sewn into the waistband multiple times before being attached to the trousers. To further complicate things, the trousers don’t sit on your natural waist so it’s hard to know if the suggested elastic lengths are right for you. The pattern descriptions say… “These pants have a relaxed fit, positioned at the lower waist, and dropped crotch.”
The sample pair I sewed for work were too loose in the waist. For this pair, I narrowed the waistband by approx 1/4″ (3mm) and attached it to the trousers before threading narrower elastic (1.5″ | 38mm) through. By doing this I gave up the flat front, but gained the ability to adjust the elastic and also reduced bulk as there wasn’t elastic in the seam allowances.
I repeated the above waistband alterations for the cuffs too.
For this pair, I added 1/2″ to the rise. They still aren’t drop crotch on me, as they were intended to be, but I like them as is. I’m also calling it a good arse fitt!
I’ve found The Assembly Line instructions to be good at telling your when to add interfacing to reinforce areas (like on these slanted pocket) and to finish seams. Their patterns also often include those nice little details, like adding bartacks on the stress point of the pocket openings (see photo above).
Did you notice I’m wearing a Assembly Line double today? I have paired these Almost Long Trousers with the Cuff Top I sewed before Christmas.
Pattern: The Assembly Line’s Almost Long Trousers (purchased from work)
Fabric: Porter Poplin – Military from The Cloth Shop
Alterations: Increased the front and back rise by 1/2″ (1.3cm) changed the elastic insertion method which included slightly narrowing the waistband and cuffs and using 1.5″ (38mm) elastic
Outfit: Cuff Top, Sophie Digard scarf from Scarlet Jones (several years ago) and as new second-hand funkis shoes (5+ years old)
Photo Location: Ballarat