Striped Lola Dress

Striped Lola Dress

As I hinted in my post yesterday, I made a Lola Dress!

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To tell you the truth, I’m feeling ridiculously pleased with myself and over the moon with my new dress.  What makes me so happy:

  1. It’s a successful pattern hack (even if it’s a rather simple one)
  2. The fabric has amazing drape and when I put it on I just feel like swishing around
  3. The dress is super comfortable, flattering (well I think so) and easy to wear.  A wardrobe workhorse in the making?
  4. What’s not to like about the start of a new year?

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The pattern hack was really quite simple (a shortened back and front pattern piece with a gathered skirt added to it) but it did involve some trial and error, as outlined below.  Although, can I suggest if you are using my notes that you skip the ‘doubt yourself’ part in the middle.

  1. I tried on one of my Lola Tees and measured the side seam from my underarm to my natural waist.
  2. I traced the front and back of my Lola Tee pattern (small graded to a medium in the bust) and cut it off at the measurement in point 1 plus seam allowances.
  3. The next day before cutting into my fabric I doubted myself.  I held up the front pattern piece to my body in front of the mirror and it looked way to short.  I promptly added 2 inches to both the front and back pieces.
  4. I fussy-cut the striped jersey (more on that later) and then made up the tee in my usual way without hemming it.
  5. I reinforced, using fine fusible stay tape, the raw edge of the bodice and marked the centre front (CF) & centre back (CB) points.
  6. For the skirt, I joined my remaining length of fabric the at the selvedge.  I didn’t want to cut into this fabric as there was enough to make a  ‘normal’ Lola Tee if the dress was to fail!
  7. Using the newly created seam as one point, I marked the top of the skirt in four even places.
  8. I sewed two lines of gathering stitch – one in the seam allowance, one below it – and I gathered the skirt to match the circumference of the bodice.
  9. With right sides together, I matched and pinned the four points marked on the skirt to the side seams and the CF & CB points on the bodice.
  10. I joined the skirt to the bodice and removed the gathering stitches
  11. I hemmed my new dress and tried it on… D I A S T E R !
  12. The weight of the skirt was pulling the bodice down to a most unflattering point.  The bodice/skirt seam was at belly button level.  Eeekkk! The bodice needed to be shortened by 2 inches, the exact two inches that I added when in doubt above.  S I G H…
  13. I took a deep breathe, got my scissors out and remedied the problem by cutting and re-sewing.
  14. The result – a dress that makes me H A P P Y… and you can’t ask for more than that!

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I spent ages cutting out my fabric to ensure that the navy (the darker and more forgiving colour) was were the bodice joined the skirt.  Thankfully I was still able to achieve this even when I made some fitting changes on the fly!  Apologies in advance for stating the obvious, but I’m very fair-skinned and I wanted to avoid the beige being next to my paleness.  The neckband is in navy, the arm-band hem is in navy and low and behold the hem is navy too!

I overlocked all my seams and I’m pretty chuffed with the accuracy of my stripe matching.

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It took me two goes to get the hem to the right length on this dress.  I’ve found that if I’m not sure, a photo of me in the item is much more helpful than looking in a full length mirror.  Go figure?  If I’m still unsure, then I text the photo to one of my sewing blogging buddies who are always super helpful.  In this instance… thanks Rachel.

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Pattern:  Tessuti’s Lola Tee made into a dress by shortening the bodice at my natural waist and adding a gathered skirt
Size: 
S graded to a M at the bust
Fabric: 
Stripey navy and beige viscose jersey purchased from Tessuti (Melbourne) in the week before Christmas
Alterations: 
As described above in points 1 – 14

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