#isewlation2020 : Updating my tee collection : Part 6 : Isla Top
I know that this is a sewing blog…. but I’m just wondering if you have even had that feeling that you’re being watched? Yeah me too…
With only three pattern pieces, Tessuti’s Isla Top was another quick sew.
The seam allowances are 1/4″ (6mm) so construction was on the overlocker. I did baste the neckline first… necklines are always the trickiest part of sewing a knit top/sweater.
The fabric is a viscose knit from The Cloth Shop (work) that had been in the stash a very long time. I love the colour!
I’m just a little bit sad that I have some wrinkling going on at the back. I experienced the same thing with two version of a woven Japanese pattern. With version 1 I thought the seams had stretched out before sewing, but when I made it again and stablised the seams pre-stitching and it still happened… I think I have a fitting issue on my hands! Can anyone shed any light on the situation?
Pattern: Tessuti’s Isla Top
Size: XS
Fabric: Deep stash viscose knit purchased from The Cloth Shop
Alterations: Completed a 3/8” (1cm) forward shoulder adjustment and shortened by 2″ (5cm) at the hem
Outfit: Jeans from Witchery, Rafia Chic shoes (mended by me) and scarf a gift from Sharon.
Location: Lake Wendouree, Ballarat
Hello Anna,
As per the droop in the center back neckline of your Isla Top in the green viscose knit. When you perform your 3/8″ forward shoulder adjustment you essentially add width and depth to the back neck that would have been on the front neck. This adjustment is successful when the body you are draping has a slightly forward head like most of us do now with electronics and phones and driving. This also means that you need a little more fabric to cover the extra bit of length created in back from the forward tilt. The droop in the center back is showing you that you have more fabric length from the top of your blouse to the center of your shoulder blades than you need. This could be related to two different shaping issues. One just being the height of the back neck needing to be shorter in the center back tapering to 0 adjustment at the shoulder seam. The other option being because the length of the back neckline is now longer due to your forward shoulder adjustment. One option would be to shorten the center back vertical seam by the amount of the drooping fabric. Start by pinning out say 3/8″ and try it on to see if that helps. You may find that if you simply shape the back neck edge so that it curves down 1/4″ to 3/8″ that you have the fit you need. Gradually shaping out the curve to 0 at the shoulder seams. The other option would be to shorten the length of the curve from shoulder seam to shoulder seam of the back neck so that the curve is up higher on your neck. This shortens the back neck edge so the top sits slightly higher on your back. This would be created by redrawing the back neck curve starting at the current shoulder point following the angulation of the curve but gradually moving up to around 1/4″ or more above the current back neck curve. This would provide a place for the drooping fabric to “hang” from and would remove the problem. Best wishes on this adjustment. I look forward to seeing the results in your blog! I love seeing your posts in my mailbox. thank you!
Hi Terri. Thank-you thank-you thank-you for taking the time to share your knowledge. You’re a gem. Your thoughts are invaluable and make perfect sense. The fabric is pooling because there is too much of it due to the reasons you mentioned. I’m going to have a play with pinning out excess and seeing what I can come up with.
I went to Tessuti to see the pattern. As I looked through the different views, noticed the 7th view shows the back, it had the same problem as yours. So I guess its a drafting error and not your alterations.
This is very good to know. I must admit the ‘ripple’ situation improved after washing.