Wiksten Haori

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Summer officially started in the southern hemisphere on the weekend, but Melbourne is yet to get the memo.  It therefore seemed appropriate to share with you a garment I sewed in August, but was wearing yesterday… my version of the very popular Wiksten Haori.

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If the pattern name isn’t familiar to you, it was originally released as the Wiksten Kimono, but last week the designer renamed the pattern to more accurately describe the style of garment.  You can read about the name change here.

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There is very good reason for this pattern to be so popular… it comes in three lengths, can be sewn in a variety of woven fabrics, and never fails to look good.  If you haven’t checked out the instagram tag, then I suggest you do.

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I sewed the XS in the longest length.  The jacket is drafted to be over-sized and my measurements were dotted between an XS and a M.  I opted to sew the XS as I wanted the finished garment to be generous but not gigantic.  I performed my usual 3/8″ (1cm) forward shoulder adjustment and my Wiksten Haori sits beautifully across my upper back and shoulders.  This was the only change to the pattern I made.

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The instructions were clear and I didn’t deviate from them.  I particularly like the positioning of the pockets, they are just the right height for this short-armed lady, and the interfaced collar sits beautifully.  I always feel comfortable and polished when I wear this jacket!

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My outer fabric was from deep stash (purchased from The Drapery in 2015 after sewing this dress!) and I just adore it.  The colour reads grey (not my usual hue) but it’s actually french navy (some might argue black or charcoal) and cream fibres woven together.  The fabric contains 55% hemp, 32% organic cotton & 13% wool making it a great trans-seasonal fabric that has the warmth and softness of wool, the strength of hemp and the easy-care of cotton.

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The lining, a Japanese cotton, just makes my heart sing.  I purchased it from The Cloth Shop earlier this year with a dress in mind, but it’s the perfect lining for this make.  I fussy cut to ensure that there was orange on both sleeves when they were rolled up, but they weren’t identical.  Do you do things like that?

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There is often lots of laughing when Sharon is taking my blog photos for me.

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Yesterday’s laughter was the result of a dog walking past.

The dog stopped for a pat and I said in a soft voice “Oh you’re a hog aren’t you?”

And then the owner says, “Well he is bigger than when we got him.  He’s a rescue dog.”

I then said in a tiny voice, as the dog and his owner were leaving the scene, “I meant he was a photo hog…”

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As if I’d tell someone that their dog looked like a pig!

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Maybe you had to be there?

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On a separate topic, did you notice my brooch?  It was designed by Ruby Pilven Ceramics and made by senior school students at Ballarat Grammar during a series of lunchtime sessions in the ceramics room.  They made brooches as a fundraiser for Beyond Blue and to raise awareness, in both the student population and the wider community, of depression, anxiety and suicide.  A beautiful object and a great initiative.

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This is my first, and definitely not my last Wiksten Haori.  I see a short version in my near future.  Have you sewn a Haori yet?

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Pattern:  Wiksten Haori
Size:  XS
Fabric:  Outer fabric (55% hemp, 32% organic cotton & 13% wool ) purchased from The Drapery in 2015 and Japanese cotton from  The Cloth Shop [sold out] was used as the lining
Alterations:  3/8″ (1cm) forward shoulder adjustment
Accessories:  Scarf knitted by me (more on that later), a Beyond Blue fundraiser brooch and boots from Florsheim
Photo Location:  Eastern Suburbs, Melbourne

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15 comments

  • LOVE this! It’s going into my must-make list. Thanks so much for sharing. What a versatile piece and looks so good on you.

  • Omg your doggie interaction made me laugh out loud! That creature is one solid unit! Gorgeous jacket! Xx

    • Oh my goodness, a unit is a great description. I’m still laughing when I think about what happened. Thanks for the lovely jacket feedback.

  • I need another jacket pattern like…. but this is perfect for the batik heavy rayon I brought back from Ball in May. I may have to hand dye some silk for the lining!!! Your jacket is gorgeous and looks great with jeans, but I bet it will look wonderful with a dress.

    • Your planned Haori sounds fabulous. And yes, it’s such a versatile pattern that you can through over jeans, dresses, pants… whatever you’re wearing.

  • You’ve got such a distinct personal color palette! The lining and and the accessories – everything is just playing on the same team in such a great way!

  • Hello! It looks beautiful. I just ordered the pattern and am out of town buying fabric — I’ve been trying to understand/find the answer to the difference in fabric amounts needed for the lining vs outer. In the size chart, you need far more lining yardage than outer yardage. Does this mean the collar is intended to be done in the lining fabric? If so, I don’t want that. Or, is it something else? Eep!

    Thank you for sharing your work! Sincerely, woman wanting to buy tons of yardage at a wool sale

    • Hi Emily. The same thing puzzled me. You have guessed right, they have specified more fabric for the lining assuming you are adding the collar in the lining fabric… which I didn’t do!

  • I LOVE the lining of your haori! Also, I adore your scarf, I need to know more about the scarf.

  • Fantastic jacket and review. Thank you for posting this. And, heck yes to the fussy cutting and color balancing. Seriously, this is such a great looking jacket. I need to clean off my cutting table so I can get started on my own.