Well my friends, one Wiksten Haori in my life wasn’t enough. This is the encore performance (first version here) and it’s true love yet again! This type of over-sized jacket is the perfect trans-seasonal layer for me.
I used a mid-weight over-dyed herringbone linen for the outer and a light-weight patterned linen for the lining. Dare I say, the perfect fabric combo for a Blogless Anna version of this pattern?
The weight of this jacket just makes it a joy to wear… the orange colour and pretty lining help too!
Even though this was the second time I’ve sewn this pattern, I still spend quite a bit of quality time with my unpicker!
I thought that it might be nice for a subtle contrast to cut the outer pockets on the crossgrain so the herringbone ran in the opposite direction. I was wrong. The overall effect was a much lighter and washed-out colour. The pocket on the right, pictured above, is the old pocket and the left is version two.
The other problem with the pocket on the right is that I tried to be a little too cute and lined the pocket with the outer fabric as I didn’t want any of the lining accidentally poking out. The resulting pocket was just too heavy and it had an unfortunate sag about it when it was being worn. Another reason it had to go!
After my spot of unpicking, I started again with the appropriate outer and lining fabrics. To ensure I didn’t have any lining fabric accidentally on show, I used my knowledge of turn of cloth and trimmed back the lining by 1/16″ (2mm) on two of the edges. When the lining is slightly smaller than the outer fabric it rolls to the under side of the seam and is out of sight. Sheryll from Pattern.Scissors.Cloth explains more about this technique here.
As a general rule, my pockets have an unhealthy obsessions of catching on the drawer handles in my kitchen. Does this happen to you? To try and protect the fabric, I fused squares of interfacing to the wrong side of the Front pattern piece at the top of the pockets (see photo above)….
and stitched bar-tacks to the top corners of the pockets. You might just catch a glimpse of a bar-tack in the photo above.
For a bit of fun, I used a decorative stitch on the top of the pocket…
and added one of my doubled-sided Blogless Anna logo tags to the side seam.
I know that some people half the collar width and don’t interface it, but these are two aspects of the pattern that I love. The interfaced colour stays sharp and sits perfectly. I even auditioned different interfacings for the job!
This wasn’t a speedy project, it was slow, considered and sewn in short burst over two weeks (most unlike me!). I even hand stitched the collar in place as I didn’t want any visible stitching. The hand stitching was actually a very satisfying end to this project and I would definitely do it again next time. Oh yes, I might not be done with this pattern quite yet.
Pattern: Wiksten Haori
Fabric: Outer fabric mid-weight over-dyed herringbone linen and the lining is a light-weight patterned linen… both from The Cloth Shop.
Alterations: 3/8″ (1cm) forward shoulder adjustment
Outfit: Jeans from Witchery, Saint James tee and Sophie Digard Scarf from Scarlet Jones and shoes by Bresley.
Photo Location: Dights Falls