Encore performance

DSC_5924

Well my friends, one Wiksten Haori in my life wasn’t enough.  This is the encore performance (first version here) and it’s true love yet again!  This type of over-sized jacket is the perfect trans-seasonal layer for me.

DSC_5886

I used a mid-weight over-dyed herringbone linen for the outer and a light-weight patterned linen for the lining.  Dare I say, the perfect fabric combo for a Blogless Anna version of this pattern?

DSC_5913

The weight of this jacket just makes it a joy to wear… the orange colour and pretty lining help too!

DSC_5875

Even though this was the second time I’ve sewn this pattern, I still spend quite a bit of quality time with my unpicker!

DSC_5862

I thought that it might be nice for a subtle contrast to cut the outer pockets on the crossgrain so the herringbone ran in the opposite direction.  I was wrong.  The overall effect was a much lighter and washed-out colour.  The pocket on the right, pictured above, is the old pocket and the left is version two.

The other problem with the pocket on the right is that I tried to be a little too cute and lined the pocket with the outer fabric as I didn’t want any of the lining accidentally poking out.  The resulting pocket was just too heavy and it had an unfortunate sag about it when it was being worn.  Another reason it had to go!

DSC_5868

After my spot of unpicking, I started again with the appropriate outer and lining fabrics.  To ensure I didn’t have any lining fabric accidentally on show, I used my knowledge of turn of cloth and trimmed back the lining by 1/16″ (2mm) on two of the edges.  When the lining is slightly smaller than the outer fabric it rolls to the under side of the seam and is out of sight.  Sheryll from Pattern.Scissors.Cloth explains more about this technique here.

DSC_5865

As a general rule, my pockets have an unhealthy obsessions of catching on the drawer handles in my kitchen.  Does this happen to you?  To try and protect the fabric, I fused squares of interfacing to the wrong side of the Front pattern piece at the top of the pockets (see photo above)….

DSC_5899

and stitched bar-tacks to the top corners of the pockets.  You might just catch a glimpse of a bar-tack in the photo above.

DSC_5864

For a bit of fun, I used a decorative stitch on the top of the pocket…

DSC_5917

DSC_5904

and added one of my doubled-sided Blogless Anna logo tags to the side seam.

DSC_5952

I know that some people half the collar width and don’t interface it, but these are two aspects of the pattern that I love.  The interfaced colour stays sharp and sits perfectly.  I even auditioned different interfacings for the job!

DSC_5902

This wasn’t a speedy project, it was slow, considered and sewn in short burst over two weeks (most unlike me!).  I even hand stitched the collar in place as I didn’t want any visible stitching.  The hand stitching was actually a very satisfying end to this project and I would definitely do it again next time.  Oh yes, I might not be done with this pattern quite yet.

DSC_5881

DSC_5879

Pattern:  Wiksten Haori
Size:  XS
Fabric:  Outer fabric mid-weight over-dyed herringbone linen and the lining is a light-weight patterned linen… both from The Cloth Shop.
Alterations:  3/8″ (1cm) forward shoulder adjustment
Outfit:  Jeans from Witchery, Saint James tee and Sophie Digard Scarf from Scarlet Jones and shoes by Bresley.
Photo Location:  Dights Falls

DSC_5929

Related Posts

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

17 comments

  • Fabulous..a great colour combo. Thanks too for the tips about the pocket reinforcement..great idea. I’m on my third WH and love the pattern! I look forward to your next sewing adventures x

  • Very nice, especially the gorgeous lining…!!

    • I had a lining earmarked for a dress, but it was just that little bit to sheer. It’s perfect as lining… adding a pop of colour when my sleeves are rolled up.

  • Gorgeous and is that not the best pattern. I’m starting my third also.

  • Love the jacket. I saved your post on Pinterest so that I can revisit the pattern. After looking at the measurement chart and the finished measurement chart, I am confused. I am considering a size M which is for hips measuring 40″-41″ but the chart tells me that the finished garment measures 30″. I don’t understand .

    • Oh yes, that is confusing. I think it’s the garment width when the jacket is laid out flat. I measure between a small & medium but made a XS and the fit is perfect for me.

  • I’d like to do a lighter unlined version. Should I use French seams? Or flat felled or interlocked?!! I’m an advanced beginner btw ☺️

  • It’s gorgeous Anna! Oh and I have particular pockets that sit at just the right place to catch on things… great idea about the extra reinforcement.

    • I lost a beloved linen dress with a pocket rip beyond repair a few years ago… my reinforcing ways are a testament to how much I grieved for that dress!

  • I love that color! It’s interesting how the direction of the herringbone affected it. Oh and I catch my pockets on the latch of my bedroom door, I’ve ripped more than one that way!

  • Very nice lady! I tend to catch sleeves rather than pockets! Lovely fabric combo xx