It was time
Oh look, another smug face from…
a very happy sewer/sewist who… tah dah… has just completed her first Full Bust Adjustment (FBA).
It was time. I’ve know for a while that I ‘should’ (gosh I hate that word) be FBAing, but instead I skirted around the edges by grading one size up in the bust area. For knit/jersey projects this was workable solution, but in my sewing heart of hearts I knew that it wasn’t cutting the mustard for wovens.
One of my current wardrobe gaps is 3/4 sleeve tops that can be layered, and in particular, worn under jackets. I think I have a winner!
Hiding under my jacket is Grainline Studio’s Scout Woven Tee with 3/4 sleeves. The pattern comes with short sleeves, but Jen has provided super clear and easy to follow tutorial for lengthening them (see Grainline’s Long Sleeved Scout Variation). For the record, the length of my amended sleeve pattern piece is 19 inches.
Now back to this FBA… I used a Threads Magazine’s online video (yah it was free!) titled Industry Insider Techniques Vol 4 – Pattern Adjustment for a Full Bust Without Darts. As per the instructions I added 1 1/2 inches on the horizontal (maroon), 1/2 inch on the vertical (light green) and then trued up the armhole, side seam and hemline (orange).
It worked a treat. I can lift my arms over my head
and drive the car without tightness across the back.
In my earlier renditions of the Scout Woven Tee (yes, this is not a new pattern to me) I got a little carried away with shortening them at the hem. For this version I left the hem ‘as it’ and it feels just right.
Oh you’d like to see some more photos? Here is another front view…
and the back.
I’m already planning on using some stashed liberty for THREE more of these tops. Three does sound excessive, but I think these will tops that I’ll wear all year around and be perfect for my Sept/Oct European family holiday.
As it’s winter here in Melbourne my current styling will be with jeans, boots, a jacket and a scarf.
Pattern: Grainline Studio’s Scout Woven Tee
Size: 10
Fabric: Japanese Tana Lawn from Spotlight
Alterations: I completed an FBA (see details above) and lengthened the sleeves utilising Jen’s Long Sleeved Scout Variation Pattern Tutorial
What a successful alteration! No wonder you have a smug look on your face. Thanks for providing the helpful links as well.
I’m definitely on a sewing high Jean Margaret. I have another successful project to share with you this week too. Think colour blocking!
Well earned smuggery indeed. I love that print!
Why thank-you Anne! I love the print too and the good news (for me!) is that I brought it a rust and chocolate colourway too…
oh, now you are just teasing me!
YES. Looks fantastic. I’ve been pondering a long sleeved Scout hack this week. I bought a pile of nani iro with the Burda Wrapped Blouse in mind, but since Scout is such a TNT, I thought a hack might be in order.
I too am in desperate need of long sleeves, but the obstacles between here and sewing something (ANYTHING!) are many right now. At least you’ve now done some of the research for me!
I’m pleased I could help out with the research. I hope the obstacles magically disappear and you and your machine can bond together.
I definitely need to give the long sleeved scout a go, yours looks fantastic!
Thanks Emma. After all the effort you put into your stunning Jaywalk winning dress, I supposed a Scout would seem like a very quick sew!
Great job – there are loads of fitting things I need to conquer so I’m most impressed by this… I’ve been running and hiding from the truth that most pants patterns on me seem to require a swayback adjustment… *sigh* tis true. I need to do it – your post has encouraged me at least!
For me Lizzy, going bra shopping last week was the final kick I needed to do something. I thought I’d start with a dartless top and take it from there. Even though it’s the middle of winter I’m dreaming of a properly fitted woven tank!
Well we all like to pretend it’s not really winter don’t we?! I’ve just finished sewing a silk singlet cocktail-style top to wear with skinny jeans… so practical in winter weather. LOL
By the sound /look of your winter, a silk singlet is a must have. Down here in freezing Melbourne, not so! I froze at the park this morning taking those pics as it was 13 degrees!
Yay for the FBA! I need to figure out why my necklines aren’t laying flat so I have a tailoring need to address too. As usual, you’ve encouraged me to
Oops–didn’t finish my sentence!
You’ve encouraged me to “take the bull by the horns” and make that change to my future makes!
It’s so good when you know the standard changes that you need to make to a pattern. It’s just hard to take the leap and investigate what they are! Good luck with your necklines.
The scout is such a versatile pattern! I like your 3/4 sleeve version very much. I added a collar to one of mine & am planning to add a longer sleeved version soon. I get. Buzz out if re-drafting patterns and getting whole new outfits.
The fabric is lovely – again. You have quite a knack for picking the perfect print for you.
I do believe I need to start attending a Scout’s Anonymous group as I love this pattern. I hadn’t even thought of adding a collar, what a great idea, my mind was more on pin tucks after seeing Jo’s recent top – http://bubalablog.blogspot.com.au/2014/05/melly-sews-hi-lo-top-and-mmm14.html
Gold! I love your pics, Anna 🙂 After much procrastination (I had a bra fitting last year & I ended up with a cup size 2 sizes up from what I expected!!) I did my 1st FBA last week too, and what a relief. It’s the type of adjustment that in theory seems really complicated & scary but once you get into it there’s really nothing to it! I should have followed your lead though & tried it out on something simple like a Scout Woven T first!
Aren’t I lucky to have a friend of many talents including photography, who likes to take my blog photos? We photographed two of my makes yesterday, so stay tuned for another blog post later in the week! I so agree, an FBA seems scary, but it’s logical and not that hard. I’m an FBA convert!
If I knew how to be an FBA you’d be seeing my smug face all over the internet! Good on you – you must feel great knowing that so many more garments are opening up to you (and thumbs up for being able to move your arms to drive your car)!
The top is undergoing the wearability test today, rather than just posing for blog photos! My future version will have an extra inch added to the sleeves as they are ‘creeping up’ everytime I put my jacket on! Apart from that, the smugness continues… as I go about my day.
Giggles. You are too cute. Glad I stopped by today. I’ll be hanging out a lil more hopefully.
It will be great to see you whenever you drop by 🙂
Great link – thanks!
My pleasure 🙂
Okay, okay, Ms. Anna!!!!!!!!!! Grrrrr; get outta my head. I know, I know I MUST learn the dang FBA. Whining now .. . it still looks soooo haaardd and extra steppy!!!! 3&(S*w2, can ya tell I’m fighting this? I’ll bet first time I do it I’ll be like, “Dang, that wasn’t so bad”.
Cheers,
Lyric
http://www.sewcroandquilt.wordpress.com
Lyric I hear you. Maybe you need to think about the little red train… I think I can, I think I can… And can I tell you success is very sweet! Fears aside… Go the FBA!
[…] my recent post about my Scout with 3/4 sleeves I indicated that I’d like to make three more from my liberty stash to fill a gap in my […]
So many reasons to be justifiably smug. It’s probably something I should try… someday 😉
Ooooh! I’m going to have to do this! Looks great. 🙂
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This is exactly what I was looking for! I had noticed some of the scouts looking a little snug on some seamstresses, ahem, blessings. I’ve been wanting to know if anyone had done an FBA and you did and its fabulous! Thanks so much for the detailed post!
I’m pleased it was helpful. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I love how we all share & inspire each other.
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I know this is a very old blog post, but I just wanted to thank you for pointing me in the direction of a dartless FBA. You’re a superstar 🙂
Hi Kate. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I’m so pleased I could point you in the right direction. Good luck with your FBA journey.