The Pyjama Game – Part 3
This is my third and final version (see one and two) of Kwik Sew 3553 in this series. And just for the record I’ve been wearing all three versions. Pyjama pants don’t need to be perfectly fitted as long as they are comfortable, and all these pairs pass the comfort test with flying colours.
The aim of this version was to reduce the drag lines curving around my bottom. After verbally consulting an expert, I scooped out the back crotch (see coloured in section in photo below) to lengthen the curve and give me some more ‘sitting’ room.
There is probably a small improvement (less drag lines?) between this and the last version, but it’s hard to really know as the fabrics are quite different. Version 2 was sewn from a cotton voile and version 3 is a much thicker brushed cotton (how divine is that Nani Iro print?). I feel like the thicker fabric accentuates the fitting problems.
Pattern: Kwik Sew 3443 – View A (pyjama bottoms only)
Size: Small
Fabric: Nani Iro Brushed Cotton from Kelani (from deep in the stash)
Alterations: Flat seat/bottom adjustment, removed 1cm from the inseam of both the front and back pattern pieces and scooped out the back crotch to lengthen the curve
Accessories: NA
Location: An empty 1950s house (a time capsule) in the Eastern Suburbs of Melbourne
This pattern would definitely need some more tweaking if these were a casual pair of pants, but as they aren’t I’m going to leave it there for now as I feel like I’ve made good progress. To recap…
Verion 3:
Super cool PJ’s Anna, all 3. BUT (not “butt”) I have to ask……what are you doing strolling around vacant houses wearing your pyjamas??! 🙂
I LOVE a play on words Kathy 🙂 And yes, good question. Let’s just say I wasn’t far from home and I had permission to be there. The old house made such a fun back-drop to what could be regarded as a boring garment.
Its interesting to see the three versions of your PJ bottoms with each subsequent adjustment. I would (respectfully!) make two comments: Firstly, where you want to alter the width of pant legs (version 2), I was taught to remove (or add) the same amount from both the inside and outside leg seams. This keeps the grain correct and stop the pant leg from wanting to twist around.
Secondly, you might have more success using a fish eye dart remove the excess fabric over your butt. The best tutorial I have seen for this is on the Iconic Patterns blog. Lena is very knowledgeable and shares her fitting skills in a clear and concise way. There is also a good Flat Seat Adjustment tutorial on Flicker by Anne Rowley.
Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge Jen. I will definitely look at Lena’s blog. I met Lena at the last Frocktails in Melbourne and we had a interesting discussion about bust darts and she left me with a greater understanding of dart angles and position. I feel this is only the beginning of my flat bottom adjustment journey.
Ok, pyjama pants aside, I have to ask how you came about being in an empty house… in your pj’s not less. But just realised that’s already been asked!
It’s one of those… It’s not what you know, but in fact who you know!
Tweaking a pattern is what I love and hate about sewing! Sometimes I wish things were better proportioned fresh off the machine. I am easily frustrated so after three pairs I probably would have been discouraged! (A conversation in my head along the lines of: “I can’t even make pajamas that fit?! 😕😖)
Oh I hear you Sarah. Fitting can be so frustrating… and yes, after three goes my pjs still need work. But the good news is that I’ve been pointed to some other excellent resources (see other comments), this is just the beginning of the journey, and when I finally get the adjustments right (and I expect I will go to a fitting class or seek out some help from an expert) I can apply it to lots of different patterns. I did a similar thing with FBAs and I’m no longer scared of them… so hopefully this will be similar too after I put in some more time. But also note how I often sew the same pattern (when it works) several times to avoid some of the fitting pain.
Having a pretty flat rear myself I automatically do a fish eye dart as a pattern adjustment on any trousers I make. There is an excellent tutorial on the style arc site plus Anne on Artisan Square also has a photograph tutorial of the same technique. I takes the excess fabric out just below the buttocks.
Thanks for taking the time to share those resources Christine. I saw that StyleArc tutorial… I will go back and take a second look.
Well well you make reading about pyjama pants quite fascinating! Makes me want to up my game for my next pair! Because yes they do tend to suffer from the ‘it’s only pyjamas’ fitting woes.
That house is really something. I do hope it’s not slated for demolition. That bathroom! And was the phone really in there?
The house is awesome. It’s not going to be demolished but it is going to be renovated. As cute as a time capsule is… it’s not favoured by renters. A professional photographer recently did a photoshoot there so it will be captured for historic purposes. And yes, the phone was just on the floor of the master bedroom!
All three pairs make marvellous colourful pyjamas. I think pair two look amazing. Great location too.
It was a fun project and a good chance to use some stash fabric. The third pair are getting the most wear (it’s still so cold here) but come the warmer weather the second pair will get a good workout.
Such great discussion for such a simple garment! You’ve been hiding that stash fabric from me – how lucky for you my decidedly non flat bottom won’t fit into them! 😉
That stash is deep, there is lots of gold in there. I have the Nani Iro in another colourway…
Obviously a W.I.P., but I think all three are fab. I just nabbed the Nani Iro pajama-pant pattern–figured Japan’s a culture where round butt is tacitly discouraged if not taboo–on verra. “An empty 1950s house (a time capsule) in the Eastern Suburbs of Melbourne”? Is that the opening line of your new play? Love the mirror shot (P-1).
I might just have to check out the Nani Iro pj pant pattern. I keep forgetting about those patterns. I’m no play write, but if I was… that line is perfect! Unfortunately, the time capsule is going to be updated to be more appealing to the rental market.