A teal long sleeve top with darted raglan sleeves sewn in delicious looped back merino french terry….
Do I have your attention yet?
Despite the cover art… since when did a sketch of bottle green top with yellow trims sell patterns? Sorry, I digress… McCall’s M6992 is a great basic pattern. It has a darted raglan sleeve, which gives a lovely sleeve shape, and two hem options. I sewed View D without the colour blocking.
I did alter this pattern quite a bit… mostly to fit my unique body, but also to adjust for some inaccuracies in the drafting.
If you are planning on making this pattern, take a good look at the front neckline. As drafted, it’s quite flat and sits very high… at windpipe level. I don’t know about you, but I don’t like to be choked when wearing my clothes! I therefore dropped the neckline by 1 3/4″ (4cm) and I’m really happy with the result.
I sewed a toile of this pattern (yes, I toile knit projects too!) and I found that the sleeve cuffs were difficult to apply without puckering. To alleviate this problem, I added 3/8″ (1cm) to the width of the cuff pattern piece. That extra little bit of fabric made attaching the cuff a delight rather than a huge frustration.
This year I seem to have acknowledged/embraced/come to terms with the fact that I need to adjust for the following things:
- My forward shoulders (see below for the low down….)
- My shorter than average arms (I removed 2″ (5cm) from the sleeve length)
- My bust… which is a good size larger than any draft that fits my shoulders (nothing that a FBA or a spot of ‘grading out’ won’t fix)
A forward shoulder adjustment on a raglan pattern had me scratching my head. I consulted my fit books and did some online research and I couldn’t find anything convincing on how to adjust for forward shoulders on raglan sleeves unless the pattern had a two piece sleeve, which mine didn’t.
I contacted my friend and walking pattern drafting encyclopedia, and she suggested that I leave the sleeve pattern piece alone and alter the raglan sleeve on the both the front and back pattern pieces. I added 3/8″ (1cm) to the raglan sleeve on the back pattern piece and then removed 3/8″ (1cm) from the front raglan sleeve. The photo above depicts this change to the back pattern piece… the crossed out line shows the ‘as drafted’ raglan sleeve and the cut line includes the added 3/8″ (1cm). Please ignore the crossed out line at the neck… just keeping it real my friends.
And guess what? It worked! Look how perfectly that shoulder dart sits on my actual shoulder. To tell you the truth, it feels like a small miracle.
Pattern: McCall’s 6992 (View D)
Size: 12 graded to a 14 at the bust
Fabric: Merino french terry from The Cloth Shop
Alterations: 3/8″ (1cm) forward shoulder adjustment, removed 2″ (5cm) from the sleeve length, graded out a size in the bust on both the front and back pattern pieces, lowered the front neckline by 1 3/4″ (4cm) and added 3/8″ (1cm) to the width of the sleeve cuff.
Accessories: Scarf from Scarlet Jones
Photo Location: Ballarat