M6519’s second cousin

Do you even alter a pattern so much that you feel it’s only a distant relative of the original? That’s how I feel about my latest make.
Here’s the original McCall’s 6519 (now out of print) top:
I sewed it’s first cousin in November 2012 (blog post here):
And it’s second cousin is a more recent make.
For this version, I returned to the original pattern and re-traced (yes, I’m a tracer) my size. I always found my first version of this pattern a little short (you know those tops that you are always tugging down) and the neckline was little high. The back neckline also stood up slightly, which I now know can be solved with a high rounded shoulder adjustment.
With the knowledge from my first version and a little more fitting experience, I made the following alterations to the original pattern:
- Reshaped the armholes to reduce the width of the shoulder seams by 1″ (1/2″ more than last time)
- Lifted the armholes by 1.5″ (check out how low they are in the pattern promo photo reproduced above)
- Scooped and lowered the front neckline by 1 1/2″
- Scooped and lowered the back neckline by 1/2″
- Completed a 3/8″ high rounded shoulder adjustment
- Removed 2″ from the hem (1″ less than last time)
- Applied contrasting bias binding to the neckline and armholes (rather than using it as a facing)
- Left off the pocket (my bust doesn’t need highlighting!)
Did you notice that I raided the Liberty stash for this make? I brought this blue and green 70cm Liberty remnant from Tessuti with a skirt for my girls in mind. It isn’t pink, purple or rainbow enough for them at the moment, so I claimed it as mine and used every last bit of the fabric available. A Liberty top from 70cm… that’s a win in my books!
I’m still not sure the fit is perfect, particularly around the armholes, but it’s more than wearable and I’m just going to go with it.
In summary, McCalls 6519 second cousin is an easy to wear summer top that fits nicely into my mummy lifestyle.
Pattern: McCall’s 6519 (now out of print) top
Size: 14
Fabric: 70cm Liberty remnant from Tessuti. Green bias binding made from some shot cotton in my scraps tub.
Alterations: See lengthy list of bullet points above.
Accessories: Elk necklace on loan from a friend & shoes from Florsheim.
Looks great – I like the blue and green together a lot. x
Thanks Rachel. Do you know the old saying… Blue & green shouldn’t be seen without a colour in between. How wrong are they?
great top !!
Thanks Ria
Wow that’s quite the pattern hack! Nice personalisation, the fit is fab
When I started listing the alterations (which thankfully I had noted on the traced pattern piece) there was a OMG moment… but in reality it was just a little bit of massaging here and there that was well worth the effort. Nothing ever fits my straight out of the box, so learning key alterations has become a necessity, and strangely enough I’m actually enjoying the process.
Great work. You are really applying those newly gained fitting skills with great success. This is a lovely top.
Thanks Jean Margaret. I’m actually enjoying the challenge of fitting a garment these days.
Anna, this top looks really cute and comfortable to wear! Your post is a great example of how fitting alterations, even minor ones, can really make a difference in the wearability of a garment. I always make a long list of minor changes to patterns, and I’m glad to see I’m not the only one who enjoys tweaking things. 🙂 I love the contrast bias on your top, and of course the LIberty fabric!
Thanks Carolyn. You are so right. Minor alterations can make all the difference to fit. My sister-in-law has already ordered one of these in exchange for babysitting!
Love the floral and green binding together! I always seem to lengthen tops. I hate when they’re too short.
Thanks Kat. The binding really pops! The shortness issue was my own fault. I lopped too much off in the first version, but none-the-less it was still annoying.
Just lovely – and a top out of 70cm of Liberty, how brilliant! I think I like this shape even better on you than your Liberty Scout versions. Love how you are making these really ‘your own’.
I tend to agree with you Jane. As much as I love the Scout the short sleeve versions tend to be a bit sticky out-ey on me. There will definitely be more 6519s in my life.
Dear Lord, that is an epic fitting session! But totes worth it- this looks amaze balls! And I am a tracer too- we’re in a safe space here. No tracing shame! 😉
Thanks for the lovely feedback fellow tracer. There will be more of these tops in my life!
Wow, great fabric scrooging and perfect fit alterations. that’s the kind of top that looks deceptively simple but to get it right takes skill. You’ve got it!
Thanks Shelley. I’m really pleased with how it’s turned out. There will be more…
Great use of your Liberty print!
[…] with my previous versions (yes, it’s the third time I’ve used this pattern!) the armholes and neckline were bound […]