Low tide
Sewing is one of my happy places and the beach is another. I’m very lucky to be spending my summer with my family and extended family on the Mornington Peninsula.
We aren’t near the bush fires that are still ravaging our state, but our thoughts are with those directly or indirectly impacted.
In these situations, it’s often hard to know how to help. Many organisations are asking for money so they can work more efficiently – processing physical donations is both time consuming and requires lots of human resources and space. I’ve donated to Vets For Compassion as they are a small volunteer group on the ground in East Gippsland helping our Victorian animals affected by the fires. See their Facebook or Instagram feed for more details about their work or their website if you wish to donate.
Now back to the sewing….
This is the Diago Blouse by Pauline Alice Sewing Patterns. Yes, it’s another boxy top, but boy it’s a good one!
Line drawing sourced from Pauline Alice’s website
This PDF only pattern is aimed at beginners and includes instructions for french seaming. It was my plan to follow these instructions, and I did for the shoulders, but then I promptly forgot and ended up overlocking the side seams to finish the raw edges. I sewed this top at a social sewing event at KATM Headquarters on November 30th last year when I was visiting @kylieandthemachine in Brisbane. I was clearly chatting too much!
I find that shoulder seam allowances on dolman sleeves have a mind of their own, so I pressed them to the back of the garment and top-stitched them in place. Speaking of shoulders, I performed my usual 3/8″ (1cm) forward shoulder adjustment using this method.
On the Diago Blouse, both the neckline and bottom hems are finished with facings.
The instructions don’t ask you to use interfacing on the facings, and I can report that it worked fine without.
I did use some stay tape on the front and back necklines to prevent them from stretching out as I sewed. Stay tape is an alternative to stay-stitching.
The dolman sleeves do make this top a bit of a fabric eater, and due to the shape of the pattern pieces, you’ll require 56″- 60″ (140cm-150cm) wide fabric.
The fabric consumption chart included with the pattern is generous. I was able to place the Front, Front Hem Facing, Back and Back Hem Facing all under one another and then cut the neck facings from the scraps on the side. I didn’t take note of the exact metreage I used, but the lovely ladies at The Drapery reported using only 1.5 m and 1.6 m (the latter when plaid matching) when they sewed their versions.
The pattern is drafted for a height of 165cm (that’s me!) and the top finishes at the high hip. It’s my perfect top length as there is no belly flashing when I raise my arms.
There are many, many, many boxy top patterns around, but I feel like I’m going to return to this one again and again for it’s easy fit, great sun coverage, perfect length, lovely shaped hem and deep facings. I highly recommend it!
Pattern: Pauline Alice Sewing Patterns’ Diago Blouse (PDF only).
Size: 40
Fabric: Deep stash Merchant and Mills linen.
Alterations: 3/8″ (1cm) forward shoulder adjustment and I pressed the shoulder seam allowances to the back and top-stitched them in place
Outfit: Pants from COS and Sophie Digard scarf from Scarlet Jones
Photo Location: Flinders
Lovely top, suits you really well…!!
Thanks Ria. I think I hit the fabric and pattern combo jackpot with this make!
Hi
I was just googling how to do an ajust on a dolman sleeve and your blog popped up.
Can l ask how you did that as l can’t seem to get the section to open, where you show the method.
I love your top and the colour is fantastic.
Thanks
Hi Libby. The website I linked to has closed it’s businenss. Here is another explanation from a blogger. I hope it helps. https://thecrookedhem.net/2021/09/28/agnes-pjs-by-paper-theory/
Beautiful blouse Anna! (And fabulous color on you.)
For the forward shoulder adjustment, if I add (and subtract) from the front (and back) pattern pieces, would I also do this to the facings?
Thinking of everyone in Australia.
Great questions Lodi. If you don’t make the same alteration to the facings, the garment will still fit together, but the shoulder seams will be the size of your adjustment different. In short, I always adjust the facings too as I like everything to match.
That neckline is so flattering on you. I’m going to have to try this pattern – thanks.
Our hearts are with those affected by the wildfires. May the fires end soon.
It’s a great pattern Jan. The fires and the aftermarth will go on for a while. The smoke haze today is hazardous, so it’s a indoors day for us.
The blouse turned out beautifully! Love the color you chose. Thanks for your notes.
No worries Fern. Thanks for reading and taking the time to comment.