Blue Kabuki
I started following Paper Theory Patterns on Instagram after seeing a sneak peek of Tara’s first pattern the Kabuki Tee. The pattern was released in September 2017, and I watched over the coming months as Kylie, Rosie (modified to a jumper), Kate (lengthened to a dress) and Style of Constructing (with long sleeves) sewed awesome versions.
I loved both the style and the design lines of the Kabuki Tee, but I had concerns. Do you ever get the pre-project jitters?
Thankfully, a carefree summer holiday attitude and a large scrap of blue linen (left over from this dress) got me started. Spolier alert, it was a dream sew!
Doubt 1 : Where would the front sleeve point sit on my bust?
Answer : In a perfectly fine position above the apex of my bust.
Doubt 2 : Would I need a forward shoulder adjustment, and if yes, how the heck would I do it?
Answer (via the pattern designer) : The pattern is drafted from a standard kimono sleeve block which has a 3/8″ (1cm) forward should build into it… music to my ears!
Doubt 3 : I had read that the sleeve insertion was tricky
Answer : After reading Paper Theory’s step-by-step blog post I realised it was the same technique I learned when making this bag several years ago. Happy days!
Doubt 4 : Sizing
Answer : The sizing is generous and you really need to consult both the body measurement and finished garment tables and understand the amount of ease you prefer in a boxy top. My bust sat between a size 10 and 12 and my hips between an 8 and 10. I sewed the size 8 and the fit is perfect for me. By taking a smaller hem allowance, I have effectively lengthened this top by 1″ (2.5cm).
So my verdict… those pre-project jitters were all totally unfounded. I love this pattern and I already have another linen version cut out and ready to sew. The real question is… how many iterations of this pattern will end up in my wardrobe?
Pattern: Paper Theory’s Kabuki Tee
Size: 8
Fabric: Lithuanian linen from The Drapery (leftover from another project)
Alterations: By taking a smaller hem allowance, this version is 1″ (2.5cm) longer than drafted
Outfit: Me-made Reef Shorts, Jenny Kee silk scarf and as-new second-hand Funkis shoes
Photo Location: Treasury Hotel, Brisbane
It’s gorgeous! So ‘you’ and what a cool pattern. Love seeing our linens pop up down the track 🙂
It was one of the first Lithuanian linens I purchased (thanks for the introduction) and I now source them when-ever and where-ever possible!
That really suits you! I’m living vicariously through your warm weather since we have snow/ice on the ground right now.
Lots of warm weather here… Must be time to sew a summer dress next!
A lovely colour and great sewing skills with the corners.
Thanks Anna. It’s good to have a little challenge on this project.
“…how many iterations of this pattern will end up in my wardrobe?” I’m seeing solid, I’m seeing print, I’m seeing dress, sleeve, neck variations…. This top is so chic! I say the more Anna-iterations, the better!
Jane, I love your thinking. I have another linen version cut out and then I thought I might raid my liberty stash. A dress is definitely an option to try ASAP!
It’s a good one. Love those sharp corners. I remember making a top called the Frustrated Artist years ago with those similar opposing corners type panels. I was silly enough to sew it up in a slinky poly satin. It certainly had me shivering… and the result was a bit messy. I think linen is the perfect grabby fabric to help with these seams
Slinky poly satin… there would have been tears if that was me!
I love those sleeves!
I’m a sucker for a good sleeve!
Ditto!
Such cool seam lines. And I find that snippet about the way a kimono sleeve is drafted very interesting. I wonder if all pattern designers do that? I suspect not! Xx
It’s a total gem isn’t it… and yes, I suspect not too!