Bias plaid
I popped into The Fabric Store in Melbourne a few weeks ago and after a quick ‘pat’ in the merino jersey section I headed straight for the 50% off table. Hello winter sale! I quickly spied this wool/silk plaid and I was smitten. I was wearing my jaywalk boxy cropped top and I wondered about making a woven version out of the plaid. I asked the sale assistant if she thought the fabric had enough drape for the project I had in mind and she suggested cutting the plaid on the bias. Genius!
Even though I’ve made this pattern twice before – firstly in a jumper knit with an open weave and secondly in a viscose/jersey – I still made a muslin as woven fabrics behave very differently to stretch. In particular, I wanted to check it would fit over my head (an important consideration) and I knew the sleeves would need alteration. When I looked at the sleeve pattern piece I quickly decided it was perfect in a jersey. Yes, another mixed fabric make was born. The sleeves are a medium weight 100% woolen jersey from the stash.
I promise I pressed the sleeve seams (although it doesn’t look like it above) and I did attempt, and failed, pattern matching. Can anyone pick where I went wrong?
The way I’ve folded the fabric has the front piece with right sides together and the back piece with wrong sides together. I knew I’d done this, I even placed a pin to denote the ‘right side’, but I failed to see the implications for pattern matching. Yes a the right side of the front piece matched the wrong side of the back piece perfectly. Well actually, I assume it does. By the time I’d worked out where I went wrong, I’d sewn & overlocked the shoulder seams together and I wasn’t unpicking them!
I used my walking foot for the entire construction, but it was only essential when I was sewing the woven and jersey fabrics together. That being said, I took the slow option and hand sewed down the bias binding on the neckline and the double-fold hem. Hand sewing was the perfect way to nurse my head cold while resting on the couch on Friday.
I feel really at home in this style, but I’m looking to the skies and putting my hopes and dreams into a new to me pattern next.
Pattern: Number 30 from Pochee’s May & Me Style Sewing II
Size: LL (without adding seam allowances)
Fabric: Wool/silk plaid and 100% medium weight merino jersey from The Fabric Store (Melbourne)
Alterations: Lengthened and narrowed the sleeves. Added 1 cm to the front and back piece to allow for a double-fold hem.
Accessories: Scarf from Scarlett Jones
Photo Location: Wombat State Forest
Love it! You’ve really got some signature styles and elements going now Anna. And I hope that you’re feeling better!
Thanks Lara. I do feel that my sewing and style grove have finally aligned. Must be time to mix it up again and try a new pattern! Well, after I sew a gynmastics outfit for book week. And yes, definitely on the mend now.
you are seriously rocking things out at the moment! This is genius- mmm diagonal plaid 😀
My wardrobe is well stocked… I’m loving all this selfish sewing. I must remember to cloth those girls of mine too! And yes, I’m a plaid convert… especially if it’s on the bias!
Oh cut on the bias to improve drape – what a great tip! I really like this top.
It was an ah ha… moment for me too Jane. A little gem. I will have to wear my top to into The Fabric Store and say a big thank-you to the lovely shop assistant!
yes. Yes. Yes. Carry on.
LOL. Why thank you I will…
Love this make. Great fabric, suits you down to the ground, and I love the way you’ve been experimenting with fabric combinations and colour/pattern blocking. A total win.
Why thank you my dear. I’m having a great time. Just traced a dress pattern tonight & I’m working through a few of my standard alterations before toiling. Wish me luck…
Lovely fabric. I don’t think it matters at all that you didn’t pattern match. And I do agree that nice fabrics deserve nice treatment, like handstitching bindings on etc!
I’m really proud of my hand stitching efforts and I agree, special fabrics deserve special treatment. Kind of wishing I had enough fabric left (and the time) to make some shorts and join the 2 piece spectacular!
It’s wonderful! Such a great eye for mixing colours, patterns and proportions, you’ve seriously hit your groove!
Thanks Susan. I do feel in a great sewing/styling space at the moment. I wore this top to dinner last night and today too. It’s quickly become a firm favourite!
I spotted the problem: There was no glass of red wine in the background of the pattern matching photo! I maintain that’s what always works for me. Either it’s that or a really good run of dumb luck!
It’s a great top, and nice trick with the colour blocked sleeves.
Ha ha… I’m a champagne girl through and though… and I have expensive tastes! I could say, lesson learnt and all that but the truth of the matter is I have such a bad memory these days I’m likely to do the same thing again!
What great vision you have. I’ve seen this fabric on many a trip to the Fabric Store & not once been tempted or inspired by it but you have got yourself one stylish top here that suits you perfectly. I just love seeing how people interpret patterns & fabrics differently
Thanks Jenny. And I totally agree. It’s fun seeing how people interpret patterns and fabrics differently. Many a trip to The Fabric Store… maybe we should plan to meet their one day soon (when I home from my big holidays!).
I could be talked into that 😛 Have a fantastic trip!
[…] used to sew up a boxy cropped Japanese pattern (jumper/sweater knit, viscose jersey & wool/silk)? I’m enjoying the experimentation and learning lots along the […]