A story about a kimono jacket
This story starts with a fabric shopping date with Lara near the end of last month. At a stretch you could say that Darn Cheap Fabrics in Heidelberg is halfway between our houses. Any excuse right? After lots of chatting and fabric patting I came across this awesome leafy jungle print on twill-like fabric with amazing drape. A look at the tag confirmed my suspicions… 100% polyester.
Now, you have probably noticed that I’m more of a natural fibres kind of girl. I’m happy with a touch of lycra in my knits, I’m totally fine with viscose and rayon, but until now I’ve had a serious case of poly prejudice. Maybe it was being in the midst of Jungle January, or perhaps some encouraging words from Lara helped, but what ever happened I grabbed that roll and proceeded to take some home with me. My plans were vague… something drapey and trans-seasonal.
It only took a couple of weeks for the creativity lightening bolt to strike… a kimono jacket. It would be a perfect layering piece, the swishiness factor would be high and I could throw it in a bag without a crease worry in the world. But which pattern? The free online tutorials looked good, but I longed for a band to finish the back neckline and front edges. A 3 for $10 pattern sale at Spotlight sealed the deal and I purchased Simplicity 1318 with either view A or B in mind. Then I began to waiver… could I pull this look off?
My research then turned to Gorman’s Autumn 2015 collection, and in particular their Greenhouse Kimono. From trying on this garment I learned:
- It was made of cotton voile and it still draped nicely (I’m filing this information away for a later date)
- The kimono was far too long for me
- The design looked good when crossed over, it was actually quite dress-like, but I didn’t like how the fabric fell went left open as you saw a lot of the inside of the garment. Also, in the ‘open position’ the ties were awkward no matter how you tied them.
Armed with this information, I bravely traced View B of Simplicity 1318 which is the same as the photographed kimono jacket on the pattern envelope sans the boarder print. I don’t sew Simplicty, New Look, Vogue, Butterick, McCalls, Kwik Sew or Burda Style patterns very often. In fact, this is only the second non-vintage pattern from the previously mentioned brands that I’ve successfully sewn before. My style is obviously more aligned with independant, European (Ottobre) and Japanese patterns!
I sewed up a quick toile of the pattern in some nasty synthetic fabric. I’m justified in using the term ‘nasty’ as during the burn test to check fibre content the fabric melted to my finger. Ouch! I’m still nursing the wound. The toile wasn’t to check the fit, which is my usual reason for toiling, it was in fact to try the instructed construction method and work our my preferred seam finishes. My toile gave me the confidence to make the following changes:
- I eliminated the centre back seam
- I joined the sleeves in the round. I’m not sure if that is ‘proper’ sewing terminology, but it’s my way of saying… as opposed to when everything is flat!
- I sewed the side seams of the jacket to the underarm marker
- I sewed the underarm seam of the sleeves
- With right sides facing, I inserted the sleeves into the body of the jacket stitched them in place
- To minimise hand stitching on this garment, I joined the short ends of the sleeve bands, folded them in half long-ways (wrong sides facing), stitched them to the sleeve (right sides facing), pressed the seam allowances away from the armholes and top-stitched them in place. Clear as mud?
The front bands/facings (you cut four of the same pattern piece… two are the interfaced and become the front bands, the other two are the facings) and the back band are the trickiest part of the supposedly ‘easy-to-sew’ Simplicity pattern. Speaking from experience, you must pay attention to the notches on the front band/facings because even though they look wrong, they are in fact correctly placed on the outer edge… the edge to be joined to the front pieces. Be warned, the facings are hand-stitched in place. I’m usually not a big hand-stitcher, but after this project I can definitely see the appeal.
The back band is a right royal pain in the neck to attach to the back neckline. If you want to have any hope of joining these two pieces you will need to follow the instructions and clip the back neckline to the stay-stitching. It’s worth persevering as the resulting neckline sits perfectly!
If you are interested in some other versions of this pattern.. Erica B has made a lovely fringed silk chiffon version and Trine from Groovy Baby & Mama is rocking her black view B Simplicity 1318 kimono with a stripey dress.
I personally think this garment comes into it’s own when you are moving… swishing…
So I’ve missed Jungle January for 2015… but I’m wondering Anne if you are accepting early entries for Jungle January 2016?
Pattern: Simplicity 1318 (View B)
Size: S
Fabric: Twill-like polyester from Darn Cheap Fabrics
Alterations: Removed centre back seam. Change construction method for the sleeves and sleeve bands.
Accessories: Necklace by Sonia Rykel (brought here) & shoes purchased at Siricco.
I love this shape- the shoulder details- the curves- lovely!
It appears that Jungle January has lasting effects on us all!
Your kimono is beautiful, drapes perfectly and I am ever so tempted to go buy that pattern today!!!…but I already have too many. Still………… What’s one more???
Popping my enabling hat on… one more won’t hurt! I think if you are after a kimono jacket, than this is a great pattern to have in the stash. Do it!
It looks fantastic! All that work is definitely worth it.
The clothes that I make are usually quite simple with minimal pattern pieces… so I must confess this kimono jacket did seems like a lot of work… even without the hand sewing. But I’m with you… it was definitely worth it.
This is lovely. The neckline sits so beautifully and I love the whole shape of the kimono.
Thanks Jean Margaret. It’s good to try and new pattern and have a win.
Lovely! I too made a kimono jacket in polyester (because I couldn’t resist the bamboo print I found)… and while I love it, I’d now like to try it in a cotton voile or rayon. I’ve been reading your blog for a long time now. My sister and I have recently resumed sewing (rather obsessively) after a many-year break and I keep coming back to your blog and others I see linked here, for the kind of stuff we are interested in (Japanese patterns, Ottobre, M&M). When I was looking for a kimono pattern I mulled over this one for a long time but then I was more strongly attracted to Simplicity 1668 (http://www.simplicity.com/p-8779-misses-separates-in-sizes-xxs-to-xxl.aspx). The picture shown on the packet in lime green linen is what lured me…. strangely enough though, when you follow the pattern instructions, it tells you to press the collar/front over at the end! Like a jacket lapel! Looks terrible! And it seems everyone on sewingpatternreview just follows the pattern instead of the lovely picture on the front! If you are lookiing for a shorter look and more rounded front, this one is also lovely and the collar/front came together a hundred times easier than I expected. The one thing I changed is I redrew the sleeves to be a truer kimono shape, coming almost straight out at the shoulder, rather than sloping downward so strongly. I find a downward sloped kimono or magyar sleeve restricts my movement too much. We are hoping to start blogging soon and will link up. -Kaz from Sydney 🙂
Lovely to hear from you Kaz. Thanks for taking the time to comment. As I have three brothers, I’m a little jealous that you and your sister can share a hobby. Thanks for all the info on the other Simplicity kimono pattern. Another pattern for my wish list!
Fabulous. I’m also in lust with the Gorman kimono, but it’s not quite right for me – this is possibly the most perfect advertisement for sewing – taking inspiration and then creating your own perfect version. The Simplicity doesn’t sound particularly easy, however your sleeve cuff method makes perfect sense to me.
I’ve been wearing Jenny’s Tokyo jacket almost exclusively as my transition jacket, I can see that this would be perfect, it’s really lovely.
I haven’t done that in-store research before, but it’s actually very helpful. I went back and had a look at Jenny’s jacket and you are a lucky lady to be calling it your own. I have been thinking about making the Tokyo Jacket too (I’ve had the pattern and fabric for a long time) but for now I’m going to move onto some Japanese makes… a few trans-seasonal items. Oh and blog the other three items we photographed yesterday!
Oh swish, swish, swishy swish. Anna, I love it and you are guilting me now about giving up on my amazing digital print satin I promised to make into a kimono months ago. I have never noticed that pattern, but I like it. The shape is lovely, but it sounds like it was a bit of a pain? I need me a kimono, I really do. You look gorgeous x
With more time to sew each week I’m sure that digital print satins days of not been sewn are numbered!
Looks great, and a good pattern choice – thanks for sharing.
I’m still lingering at the edge of the sewing pool, still afraid to put my toe back in after so long! Enjoy your blog and vicariously sewing 🙂
Thanks Jenny. I was an edge sitter for a long time until I started my own blog. After I started blogging it took quite a while for me to find my feet… or more importantly my style & to make things that fitted both my life & my style.
So lovely! I feel the instant need for a kimono!
LOL Mette. I often feel this way after reading blog posts!
Oh! I almost bought that pattern. I had trouble actually finding it in a store, so I picked something similar. It looks good! Nice fabric choice!
Thanks Linda. Have you sewed the similar pattern up yet?
Yes, I am working on one now. A beautiful solid red knit, but it is quite stretchy so I am trying to stabilize it in certain places with interfacing. I will blog about it when it is done. It is for the Monthly Stitch’s February challenge!
The stablising should do the trick. Fingers crossed for smooth sailing until you’re across the finish line!
Love this so much! You did such a stellar job and that fabric…I wish it were mine!
Thank-you Sophie. If it ever needs a new home it’s yours. 😊
Just stunning! I’ve been dreaming of a kimono jacket for months… But I really think I need one now!
Thanks Rachel. The new season Named lookbook includes a kimono… patterns to be released in three days. Lots of kimono pattern options now!
I love Kimonos and I am very happy to read that these are fashionable now. Your pattern choice with the curves, longer at the back, is especially beautiful!
So easy to wear. Fingers crossed the trend continues for a few season.
[…] seeing Blogless Anna’s gorgeous rendition of Simplicity 1318, I really wanted to make one with some pink floral silk I have in my stash, but do you think I […]
Your kimono is lovely! I’ve been considering this pattern, bought it a few months ago…now I think I’ll give it a try 🙂