Nearly
This is one of those nearly makes. Not terrible, but just not quite right.
But let’s go back to the very beginning. I’m a collector of Japanese sewing books. I love the quirkiness of the Japanese style, the simple lines, interesting details and use of natural fibres.
I regularly flick through the pages of my collection dreaming about all the things I’d like to make. To date, one dress that constantly made me take a second look was the Draped Collar Dress from Feminine Wardrobe by Jinko Matsumoto.
I have a few pieces of lovely chambray in the stash. The one I selected for this dress was purchased twelve months ago when Rachel and I went on a road trip to Joys Fabric Warehouse in Geelong.
The dress is described in the book as ‘a charming dress with a draped collar and shirt-tail hem”. The collar is large and cut on the bias, which gives it a lovely drape.
Did you notice the red top stitching… my little ‘Blogless Anna touch’? Yes, all the visable stitching on this dress is in red.
Why red? Well it matches the little liberty gusset. Gussets are fiddly, but I’ve come to the conclusion they are well worth the effort.
Oh, you’d like a closer look? Sure.
Did you catch a glimpse of the sneaky liberty binding used as a facing on the hem? It’s these little details that make me so happy.
So, why this is a nearly make? It’s the length. If I’m wearing such volume, and yes there is lots of volume in this dress, then it needs to be shorter… more pins on show.
With binding used as a hem facing and gussets, this baby wasn’t going to be unpicked and redone. The good news is the dress has been re-homed (you’re welcome lovely photographer & awesome friend Sharon) and I have some more chambray, liberty and an amended pattern ready to go.
What do you do with your nearly makes?
Pattern: Draped Collar Dress from Feminine Wardrobe by Jinko Matsumoto
Size: Small. I only added seam allowances to the gusset and collar (lazy sewist)
Fabric: Chambray from Joys Fabric Warehouse purchased in November 2013
Alterations: None
Accessories: Necklaces from Elk (borrowed) & shoes purchased at Siricco.
I’m so glad you’re making another because I LOVE this! I agree the volume calls for a slightly shorter hem, but I can’t wait to see your next one. Japanese Pattern Book sewists unite! I’ve got another ready to blog 😊
Quick get blogging… I want to see your latest Japanese make. Love from an impatient Japanese Pattern Book sewist.
Gah! Anna I love the dress so much I cannot say – so am SO glad that you are making yourself a shorter volume. Win win for Sharon and for you. It’s such a fantastic make!
Shorter length, not volume……must be my bedtime
Thanks Lara. It’s going to be my chambray challenge dress. Mid blue top-stitching next time…
Anna this is wonderfull! I read so much everywhere about Japanese style that I start to be curious!
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Japanese styles are interesting, but I understand not everyone’s cup of tea. Maybe your local library has some you could borrow?
That’s a good idea… I will try!
thanks!
Totally in love with the gusset and hem binding. Brilliant!! Would love for you to add a picture of Sharon wearing the dress!
The gusset is such a nice detail. Lovely Sharon is much more comfortable behind the camera. 😀
Beautiful details on this dress, Anna! The red topstitching and Liberty gusset and bias binding are just so lovely. It’s these special touches that really make a garment handmade, not homemade. Looking forward to seeing your next version!
Thanks Carolyn. Customising your makes is one of the things I really enjoy about sewing. I’m looking forward to sewing this dress again.
Glad you were able to re home the dress. I think a shorter hem would have made a difference. i love the Liberty touches!
Especially when they are liberty scraps. Yah for stash busting!
It’s a lovely dress and it’s always tough when something doesn’t feel quite ‘right’. It’s a win that you have enough for another and your first make has a loving home!
I must admit I’m getting rather fussy with my wardrobe. Things only get to stay if they are perfect and I set quite high standards. Perfectionist tendencies… oh yeah!
Me too, I feel no urge to wear something ‘wrong’ to justify my work or spend. I’d rather give it away or chop it up!
I don’t mind the length on you – the dress seems to hang really nicely at that length. Looking forward to seeing the next one!
Thanks Rachel. Here’s hoping that the shorter one is all that I expect!
It looks so fabulous to me, but I’m sure it will look even better in the shorter length! So many styles look better above the knees 🙂 Loving the collar and that liberty insert. Did you choose the size based on bust measurements? I’m taking notes in case I find the right fabric to sew this 🙂
Good question Erin. I did my usual trick and I located a similar pattern that fitted me (in this case the linen raglan with the sleeve tuck detail that I recently made) and lay it on top of the dress pattern. The size small was over inch wider than my top (which is roomy) so I decided to go with the small and save myself the hassle of adding seam allowances. I hope this helps.
I love it, particularly the liberty gusset and the red stitching. Lucky friend. Look forward to seeing your next version. Im not game to try Japanese pattern books after one disaster.
I’ve had some disasters too Barbara. I’ve got a 50/50 track record with Japanese patterns but I still come back as when they work they are wonderful.
Swoon, I LOVE this. The red topstitching is inspired. Can’t believe this is a nearly!!!!! It is awesome. This pattern has been at the top of my make list for so long, I just never seam to find the perfect fabric for it.
Chambray is obviously a good choice. I could see it in a linen too. I think it probably needs a non-print fabric but I’m happy to be proven wrong. ☺️
Bummer! If it weren’t for the gorgeously finished curved hem… I would be saying whack a few pleats in there to bring it up! Because whilst I can totally see what you mean (I’d be thinking the same thing) – it’s a really lovely make.
I’m terrible at fixing things once they are finished, so I knew there was more chance of me remaking a whole new version. Different liberty gusset & the colour of the top stitching next time.
I think it looked awesome! Lucky friend who has it now. I’m inspired to make one now, though have got several (other) Japanese books already and have barely made anything so far… But, I have just bought some chambray and was wondering what to use it for.
It sounds like it’s meant to be Rose. I started collecting the Japanese sewing books for quite a while before I plucked up the courage to sew from them. All in good time I say 😊
The husband has an unnatural dislike of shirt tail hems- this combines that detail in a way to that is playful and not really shirttail- love it!
My almosts usually go to Goodwill unless a major lightbulb goes off!
And what nay I ask has a shirt tail ever done to your husband? I have absolutely no qualms about moving on something that’s not quite right. Life is too short & my fabric & pattern stash are too large…
I’m a huge on-the-knee fan so I can’t believe you’re not delighted with this dress. I love it! I guess if you’ve got the legs, then hiding them under a wide dress does seem silly, but I think the length is very flattering. The first photo gives a really elongated silhouette and you look great.
The hem detail is lovely and I can see why you’d want to get it right in order to love it.
Thanks Shelley. Here’s hoping my second version meets my expectations. 😊