A Jac for a Jill
When I was supposed to be sewing up my Frocktails dress… Mr Blogless Anna’s procrastination skills are rubbing off on me… I was of course sewing up my first every button up shirt. As you do!
I brought Tessuti’s Jac Shirt when it was released in March 2013 but it’s taken over two years for me to pluck up the courage to sew this pattern. Sizing and fabric selection issues aside (more on that later) I love this pattern and all its details…
Check out the angled side splits which have perfectly drafted mitred corners…
and the three-quarter-length sleeves with slits that beg you to fold them back!
Suggested suitable fabrics for this shirt include lightweight linen, silk crepe de chine, soft drapey cotton and cotton/silk blends. Tessuti specifically says that it’s not suitable for stiff fabrics. Although the linen I used wasn’t stiff, it wasn’t lightweight either. I think the shirt looks okay from the front but there is just too much volume at the back.
The fabric wasn’t the only thing I didn’t get quite get right, I sewed a size small and it’s just a touch to big for me, particularly in the shoulders. Fortunately, my gorgeous sister-in-law has swimmer’s shoulders and she is eager to call this shirt her own. She has been waiting patiently for this to be blogged before it could take up residence in her wardrobe. I know it will be very happy in its new home.
Meanwhile, I’ve cut out a slightly shortened extra small in some lightweight linen. I must get sewing as this shirt will be a great trans-seasonal piece in my wardrobe.
And the shirt making… well like most things, it was no way as hard as I thought. The trickiest part for me was top stitching the collar and collar stand and I believe it’s just one of those things where practice makes perfect.
Pattern: Tessuti’s Jac Shirt
Size: Small
Fabric: Medium weight linen purchased at Primoza’s studio sale (now sold out)
Alterations: None!
Accessories: Elk beads (however they were a fantastic find from the op shop!) and (new) shoes from Habbot
Good that your “nearly” will have a happy home! I have noticed this pattern when Ingrid of “we the sewing” made it and yours looks equally great! My go to method to do collars is Andrea ‘ s of “four square walls”. It produces nice results. Xx
It was Ingrid who reminded me that I needed to make this shirt. I had totally forgotten about Andrea’s collar tutorial. I’ll definitely be using that next time. Are you tempted by this pattern?
Beautiful work. I might try this pattern, I do like the details in Tessuti patterns. And I concur with Ute, Andrea’s collar method works a treat.
Thanks Barbara. Two recommendations are much better than one!
You have done a brilliant job on your first ever button up shirt. I like the angled side splits and the turn up cuffs. This looks like a great pattern. Looking forward to seeing the second one.
Thanks Jean Margaret
Collar stands! My nemesis! Thanks for the try on! Going to try printing my fabric for my version this week!
I love a ‘try on’ session. Did you see the reference to the collar tutorial in the comments above? I’ll be giving that method a go next time.
I have been wanting to try this pattern, so your lovely version has pushed it up the queue again. One tip from me for top stitching collars, etc – edge stitch foot. Love mine. 🙂
Thanks for the tip Sue and good luck with your Jac.
i “see” you in chic NY store windows constantly. one day i’ll have to send you a shot of all the shops stealing your style here! beautiful, as always.
You say the nicest things! Thank-you. NY is on my bucket list, but meanwhile I look forward to you snaps of shop windows.
i love your choice of fabric – such a great print and very flattering. i do love the side slit detail and i have to hack it soon.
as for the back, i notice that none of the photos show the back (why?), but what you can see makes the back look kind of bigger than the size would indicate, maybe a whole size (at least) bigger than the front.. as for the shoulders, yours appear to be the same drop-off as the style lines. the thing that does seem odd is the fact that the back hem hoists up. normally, that would indicate that you would need a forward shoulder adjustment, but never having seen your shoulders, it’s hard to make that call. it’s definitely not the stiffness of the fabric alone and it may never be true in any other pattern. pull the shirt back on your shoulder so the shoulder seam is sitting toward the back and the collar is sitting away from your back. if the swing of the shirt now lays straighter against you, you need a forward shoulder and/or an upper curved back adjustment. that’s such a common problem and you find fixes all over the web. such a dichotomy – we cause a problem for ourselves by leaning over our sewing machines, then we have to accommodate for the problem by leaning over the sewing machine.
Thank-you for taking the time to comment Barbara as it’s been VERY helpful. You’re right, those shoulders of mine seem to have moved forward! Another adjustment to get my head around and add to my tool-bag of tricks!
Beautiful stitching Anna! Collars/nemesis – same, same. You did a beautiful job! Seems this is a another example of the generous sizing in Tessuti patterns?
Why thank-you, and yes, Tessuti patterns are definitely drafted for a relaxed fit.
I really like the shape of this shirt and the side hem detail. It looks lovely in the linen.
[…] saw this shirt just recently here, and promptly decided that I had to make one too. The funny thing is, I’ve seen this pattern […]