Hello Hemlock

Slouchy, boxy Hemlock Tee, I LOVE thee.  How much do you love thee?  This much… times infinitely!

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Yes, it was love at first sight.

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The very awesome Jen from Grainline Studio released a free pattern yesterday.  The Hemlock Tee is a singled sized, boxy tee.  The moment I set eye on this pattern, and without waiting for the instructions (which are now available here), I got to work!

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There were a few ‘new for me’ things on this project.  I used my twin needles to top stitch the neckline.  I’m really pleased with how it looks and will be using this technique again.

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Recently, I’ve become rather obsessed with using stay tape when sewing with knits (think reinforcing shoulder seams and hems), but as this was a slouchy tee, I decided to try without.  And readers, I have to tell you, it was fine.  Not a wavy hems in sight!

My final experiment was to daringly do away with my walking foot.  I religiously use a walking foot when sewing stripes, and particularly, striped jersey.  Jen has designed the pattern with 3/8 inch seam allowances, it’s made for overlocking, so overlock I did!  I have to say, I’m really impressed with how well the stripes match.  Okay, there was a bit of pinning, but still, it was very painless.  I failed to get a photo of the side seams (sorry about that), but look, a mostly matching shoulder seam.

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Pattern:  Grainline Studio’s Hemlock Tee (free pattern & online instructions)
Size:  One size
Fabric:  Super soft striped grey and red viscose/elastine jersey from from The Ark Haberdashery
Alterations:  Shortened the sleeves by 3 1/4 inches.  Shortened the hem by 2 1/4 inches.  In the interest of helping you all understand the fit, my bust and hips are both 39 inches and I’m 5 foot, 5 1/2 inches tall.

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  • You are quick!! This looks fab on you. I am slightly in love with my twin needle and use it at every available opportunity.

  • That was quick!!! I did think of you when I saw her post announcing it. Congrats on your knit bravery, those seams look pretty good. I’m putting this on my ever growing list.

    • My list is so out of control. I have lots of pattern traced and fabric purchased, even a calico Victoria Blazer and today I feel like sewing a silk top (not on the list!) and scarf to wear to dinner with some sewing buddies on Sat night!

  • That was fast and it turned out great! Your seams look perfect, I can only hope that when I try them , they will turn out fine too. This T is so much like the kind of clothes I wear all the time that it’s futile to resist, so this is going on my list of things to sew. …. But after i finish this and that 🙂

  • Yay! It looks wonderful – I have printed and taped, and now that I’ve seen yours I am going to SEW! Wonderful stripe matching, I must say. And yes, do sew the silk top.

  • It looks so great, and YES!! First one!! I’m glad you went with the serger, I always sew my seams then serge but for this top I decided to eschew the sewing machine. So glad you like the pattern!

  • This is so cute on you, I love it! I have this pattern and instructions bookmarked and I’m going to make it as well.

  • I love it! I am printing mine now as I type. I am trying to decide what to wear on Saturday night. I can’t make up my mind!!!!!

    • This has been on my mind too, and I’ve decided to try and make myself a top in the black floral silk for Saturday night. Just cutting what is hopefully a wearable toile. Another pattern hack on the go…

  • This is so great! I really want to make this pattern with some heavy jersey I have in the stash, I wonder how it would look in a thicker knit?

    I love how you’ve styled this with the scarf and your matching shoes, it looks awesome!

    • Thanks Kathryn. That scarf is one of my all time favourite accessories. I have some silk set aside to make myself a similar one. The dilemma is whether to machine or hand stitch. I have lots of fabric, so I might try both!

  • Looks lovely, very tempted to have a go myself.

  • It’s great! I might have to borrow that overlocker an conquer my knit phobia sooner rather than later.

    Also, looking forward to your Victoria – I’m tossing up whether or not it’s too Miami Vice for me – and can’t wait for the release of the little jacket pattern you tested.

    The list, like Amy’s, is ever growing… stayed up last night finishing the latest Scout because I didn’t have anything to wear. You know, couldn’t be bothered with the laundry!

    • Let’s make a date to have an overlocker play and you can try on my calico Victoria (if the real one hasn’t been finished). Gotta love that Scout pattern… I’ve been sewing with silk today!

      • Ooh, silk… I have two pieces with a Burda and Tessuti Valerie in mind, but I’m still scared!

        A play would be lovely. I’m about to get a long-ish term loan of an over locker from my niece while she’s OS, but some guidance before diving in would be fantastic.

  • Looks great Anna, I love the look and shape of this T – might be adding it to the list too!

  • Epic stripe matching! You are the queen of rad wardrobe staples, Anna!

  • […] pattern only appeared during the week. Luckily for me, Anna was super fast off the mark and had hers whipped up a day later! I used the same alterations that Anna made, as I am actually […]

  • I love this, Anna. I’m currently sewing a version of my own. Knits really aren’t my thing and I’m pretty please with how it’s going so far (apart from a slightly wavy neckline due to the topstitching). Now I’m on to hemming the sleeves and bottom. Did you use your twin needle here as well? (I only have a normal, not stretch, twin needle so am hesitant to use it). I just don’t want to screw the whole thing up at the last step!! Any thoughts?! I also like your slightly shortened version…perhaps I’ll chop some of the length off…xx

    • Hi Laura. I was just admiring your tunic yesterday. Pattern testing is fun! I did use a twin needles (a stretch one) on the hems. I found that lowering the tension on my machine (from 4 to 3) and increasing the stitch length (from 2.5 to 3) made for less of a mound between the two rows. Not to mention a good old blast of steam at the end! I learnt this by playing around with some scraps of the fabric first. Good luck.

  • […] the bottom hem I turned to fellow blogger Anna (who had already made this awesome version) for help.  I took her advice of using a twin stretch needle, increasing the stitch length to 3.0 […]

  • […] of weeks after Grainline’s Hemlock (another free pattern) and as I’d already made a Hemlock I thought I didn’t need this pattern in my life.  How wrong was I?  I actually like this […]